Part 4: 'American Paranoia in Despotsville'

  

Avenida Mao Tse Tung and Avenida Kim Il Sung





A month in Maputo and only arrested once. I guess it's my own fault - call it Greek plane-spotter's syndrome. Maputo streets are named after revolutionary heroes, both local, such as Eduardo Mondlane and Samora Machel and international such as Karl Marx and Ho Chi Min. Some of these heroes became less than heroic and so walking around Maputo can at times seem like a walk around Despotsville. Probably no worse than any victim of Britain's colonial past having to put up with Victoria Station, Clive House, and the Tate Gallery etc. 


Anyway I'd been told that the Cultural Delegation to the American Embassy was located on the corner of Avenida Mao Tse Tung and Avenida Kim Il Sung. The diplomats probably have strict orders to avert their eyes as they walk in, a bit like Mormons in a sex shop. I couldn't resist the idea of photographing the street signs, so off I set from Avenida Patrice Lumumba, up Avenida Salvador Allende and on to Avenida Mao Tse Tung. Got to the junction, took two or three shots, and off I set for Avenida Vladimir Lenin.

After about 50 metres I was stopped by a security guard who'd chased after me. He asked me what I was photographing. I told him street signs, and showed him the images (lucky it was a digital cameral). He indicated in Portuguese that I could not photograph the American embassy. I again said that I was not interested in the embassy, but was interested in the street signs. He then insisted that I accompany him back to the Cultural Delegation building.



  Avenida Vladimir Lenin


After a ten minute wait, two security guards and a policeman arrived in a van. They asked me to get in and go with them to the police station. I was remarkably unconcerned, partly because they were being quite friendly about it all, but partly because I thought better a Mozambique police station than an orange jump-suit and one-way ticket to Guantanamo Bay.


  Avenida Salvador Allende

 

 At the police station I had to go through all the images on the card, and the main policeman told me to erase all the ones which had the American Cultural Delegation in the background. They then laughed about the other photos I had on the card (tip: always keep a baby photo on your memory card - terrorists don't carry pictures of toddlers in baby bouncers). Luckily I was able to skip past one of the offending photos without erasing it. 

They then all shook my hand and 'asked' me if I could buy them a drink. Ten minutes and the price of three beers later I was dropped off back on Avenida Mao Tse Tung. 

Sid Verber

7th March 2004

 

 

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